- √ - Gira 0553 00 Steuereinheit 1-10V

[Warichet]

Hi,

I'm unable to make this device work.
I've assigned 4 GA, one to each KO.
With the HS Monitor, I send a 1 to the On/Off GA and it works. I hear the click and the LED goes on, but on the output I measure nothing, no voltage.
The "Sperren" is not set.

I can send whatever value to the Dimmer GA or Heiligkeitswert GA, nothing happens on the output 1-10V.

Any hint ?
Is it allowed to test the device without a load connected ?
Any precautions with this kind of devices ?

[HartmutB]

Raymond,

just to be sure (and because I feel responsible somewho that you have to fight with this device ):

Did you attach the 230 Volts at N and L or just the KNX bus ?


Regards,
Hartmut

[Warichet]

Hi Hartmut,

Did you attach the 230 Volts at N and L or just the KNX bus ?

You will not beleive me, but I did RTFM
Yes, L & N are connected and L' is switched On/Off when the relay clicks.
Could it be an application problem ?

PS: I bought the device from eBay, and it is supposed to work.

[HartmutB]

... but I did RTFM

Good start, did the same a few minutes ago. Again: Never used it myself, just "theory" ...

PS: I bought the device from eBay, and it is supposed to work.

Cross your fingers !

Hopefully, others have better ideas.


Greetings
Hartmut

[tstalzer]

Hi Raymond

did you test it with a driver attached (light control with 1-10V Input)?

If not, you need to have a pull-up resistor with e.g. 1k to 12V in order to measure the voltage - level (No guarantee...). (1k @ 12V => 12mA)

Thomas

[Warichet]

Hi Thomas,

did you test it with a driver attached (light control with 1-10V Input)?

No, not yet. I prefer to program & test new devices on the bench, before putting them in production. But maybe there is an interaction with this type of device, so they need to be connected together ?
It is my understanding that the 0553 is supplying the output voltage. I didn't see any recommendation in the doc about special precautions (although my reading skills of the german language are not perfect ).

If not, you need to have a pull-up resistor with e.g. 1k to 12V in order to measure the voltage - level (No guarantee...). (1k @ 12V => 12mA)

I somewhat though about it and I've put a 2.2K across the ouputs, no result.
Oh, oh, if I get you right, it is the controlled device that is supplying the voltage (not the 0553). OK, then it MUST be connected

Thank you for your interest in my misery.
PS: just to make you laugh.....
This package was send from Limburg on 29-12-07 .... and on 25-01-08 it was ???? it was ??? back to Limburg (address not found. I still don't know if they didn't find France, the Gers, my village or my house). Resend with same address on 04-02-08 and arrived on 08-02-08. Maybe the 12V got lost in the transport

[EIB-Freak]

The 1-10V-Output is NO Voltage Output! There is only a variable Resistor build in.
The device you connect to the 1-10V deliveres the Voltage, and the resistor make at least an voltage-divider (on German: Spannungsteiler).

And the Relay-Contact nly switch the 230V AC Power to the switched Output for the Device.

So, this "Steuereinheit" is not an "Analog Actuator" .

[tstalzer]

The 1-10V-Output is NO Voltage Output! .

That is why I suggested the 1-2k Ohm pullup resistor to 12V, if no power unit is connected.

BTW - I ran into the same "trap" with a dimmer from Hager....

--Thomas

[Warichet]

@EIB-Freak
>The 1-10V-Output is NO Voltage Output! There is only a variable Resistor build in.
Indeed.
I've put the device into place, connected the Variled, and it works. The brightness of the LED spots is not linear. The most remarkable variation is in the 15-35% range. Maybe I've to redefine the steps on the List in the HS (I used the same List (0,13,25,37,50,63,75,87,100) as for a standard dimmer.
NB: this Variled sold by Farnell is noticeable cheaper then the Tridonic equivalent, here are the specs


@tstalzer
>That is why I suggested the 1-2k Ohm pullup resistor to 12V, if no power unit is connected.
Well, I wouldn't know how to do that. It implies using an external power supply, and I didn't have one at hand.

So the recommandation "do the set-up & programming on the bench and put it in place afterwards" has an exception .

> I ran into the same "trap" with a dimmer from Hager....
You ! in a trap ??? nooo, can't be . Traps are exclusively reserved for newbees like me .

Thank you very much for your helpfull hints.

[homer]

This discussion brings me an idea. I need to control my ventilation system by 0-10V signals. Analog actuator is damn expensive. Would it be some way to use this dimmer (I know, it's only 1-10V) as control device? If I supply 10V external, I would have variable resistor in this device and on the output I would connect the vetilation system. Would this solution be realisable, or it's completely wrong way?

Best regards
Zdenek

[swenga]

I need to control my ventilation system by 0-10V signals. Analog actuator is damn expensive. Would it be some way to use this dimmer (I know, it's only 1-10V) as control device?

Tried that one, failed, got the Analog Output 0..10V and am happy with it.

IMHO there must be a specific behaviour according to load etc on the 1..10V interface to keep it working. A couple of hours testing reached my threshold for buying the other device, now i have the 1..10V on spare

best regards

[homer]

Tried that one, failed, got the Analog Output 0..10V and am happy with it.

IMHO there must be a specific behaviour according to load etc on the 1..10V interface to keep it working. A couple of hours testing reached my threshold for buying the other device, now i have the 1..10V on spare

best regards

You are right. Sometimes is better to buy more expensive thing instead of investing plenty of time to wrong way.
Thank you. BR

[747driver]

Which one did you end up buying?
I have the same issue with a Gira 101700 which I thought could be used to come up with a 1-10V signal to control the heater...