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Esylux LS-flat failure & repair

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    Esylux LS-flat failure & repair

    So had a not-so-good experience with Esylux "5 year manufacturer" warranty today. Had an issue with an Esylux LS-FLAT this week, just under 5 years old, bought through an online vendor in Germany. No need in naming the retailer, they have no role here. The Esylux device stopped working altogether a couple of days ago, still within those 5 years..

    The 5 year warranty is an Esylux manufacturer warranty and the retailer has no obligation to help. Also, the published warranty conditions by Esylux explicitly state that any warranty claim under that 5-year manufacturer warranty is to be sent to and processed by Easylux or their primary distributor in the country where the item was bought, and not through the retailer.

    So I contacted Esylux DE through their website. I was happy to deal with them and send the device to Germany. But they forwarded my message to Esylux NL, because I am located in NL, even though I clearly stated the item was bought in Germany. Esylux NL calls and states that they can't do anything because the item was bought in Germany. Yep, I understand, that's why I contacted Esylux Germany, and not Esylux NL. But Esylux Germany forwards everything to Esylux NL because I'm not a German customer. And there you go, it's a circle.

    There is no clause in their warranty conditions about the location of the customer (I even think that would be illegal in the EU), so based on their own warranty conditions, Esylux Germany should simply process my claim. I gave up though, it's just a EUR 80 device. However, stuff like this annoys me to a level where I'll simply choose a device from another brand for new installations.These companies should stop with their European market segmentation, that's a relic from the past. And if you promise a 5 year warranty, you should uphold that, according to your own warranty conditions.

    Anyway, I did have some spare time and decided to have a look myself. The device is easily opened (Two plastic latches) and consists of a single PCB. One side is the bus coupler and PSU, the other side holds an Atmel 926P, the light sensor, etc.

    The bus coupler is built around an Elmos 981.03. That has an integrated SMPS to power the device electronics, which needs some external compenents (rectifier diode, caps, inductor). While everything on the bus coupling side seemed to work, there was no output voltage on the VCC output, so no power to the rest of the circuit. Some fault seeking led to a failed rectifier/switching diode (the one circled in blue on the picture below), effectively shorting the output, causing the 981.03 to disable the SMPS. Replaced the diode and the device is fully working again.

    Details posted here for future reference by anyone running into the same issue with one of these Esylux devices. If they used the same diode on all their devices, chances are that this will fail on other boards as well over time.

    I do realise though that that is not a job for everyone, you need some rework equipment and experience with SMD rework. The smallest diode I had lying around that matched the specs as required according to the Elmos 981.03 datasheet also had a larger form factor (DO214AC) than the original diode (I think SOD523 or 323), but due the board layout, I did get it to fit using the pad for the inductor to solder it onto. I used an ONSEMI SS16T3G​. the original one was labeled L14 7DY, so probably a 40V rectifier diode. But it failed, so it seems it might have been under spec..

    If someone runs into a similar issue with one of the Esylux KNX devices and cannot get a replacement under warranty, check this diode:



    How to diagnose: measure voltage output on the VCC output for the Elmos 981.03. You can use the KNX negative lead for 0V. Easiest for the positive testlead is the positive pad for that red electrolytic cap right next to it. If you measure 0V, use an oscilloscope to see what happens when power is initially supplied. If you see a voltage initially, which then decreases to 0, it almost certain to be the diode. What you see on the scope is the inductor charging. As soon as it's saturated, you've got a short and voltage drops to 0.​ If so, replace diode and test device again.
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